The cobblestone streets of Florence are buzzing with a different kind of energy this week as Pitti Uomo 109 kicks off, but the loudest signal isn't coming from the historic Italian piazzas—it’s coming from the Fortezza da Basso, where Swaim Hutson just unveiled his debut collection for Rag & Bone. Marking a significant pivot for the New York label, the Fall/Winter 2026-2027 showcase signals a high-octane renaissance, blending the brand’s downtown cool with a sophisticated, global perspective. For the first time in years, the fashion set is looking at Rag & Bone not just as a purveyor of reliable staples, but as a directional force in modern men's tailoring.

The "Mash-Up" Aesthetic: Tailoring Meets Technical Workwear

Hutson’s first outing as head of menswear design is a masterclass in contradiction. Gone are the days of rigid categorization; in their place is what Hutson calls a "mashed-up" aesthetic designed for the way men actually dress today. The collection dismantles the traditional suit, replacing it with fluid, versatile separates that bridge the gap between the boardroom and the street.

On the runway, this translated to trucker jackets layered beneath sharp Italian blazers, and technical parkas worn over pleated trousers. The silhouette is relaxed but deliberate—a nod to Hutson’s background with The Academy New York and Obedient Sons, where he honed a reputation for understated sophistication. "Guys aren't wearing full suits like they used to, especially in New York," Hutson noted during a preview. "They want a sport coat they can throw over raw denim, or a piece that feels tailored but functions like workwear."

Redefining Silhouette and Texture

Texture played a pivotal role in grounding the collection. We saw heavy wools clashing with slick, technical nylons, creating a tactile experience that feels both luxurious and rugged. The color palette remained true to the brand’s urban roots—charcoal, navy, and black—but was punctuated by unexpected bursts of rust and olive, signaling the Fall Winter 2026 menswear trends that are likely to dominate the season.

The Return of RB Raw: Heritage Denim for 2026

No Rag & Bone collection would be complete without a nod to its denim heritage, and Hutson has leaned into this legacy with the revival of RB Raw. This isn't just a reissue of old favorites; it’s a complete reimaging of luxury workwear and denim for the contemporary market. The new denim program focuses on proprietary fabrics that offer the structure of raw denim with modernized comfort and fit.

The standout pieces included selvedge jeans cut with a wider, straighter leg—moving away from the skinny fits of the past decade—and denim jackets treated with artisanal washes that mimic years of wear. By elevating these workwear staples, Hutson is effectively blurring the lines between high fashion and everyday utility, a move that resonates deeply with the ethos of Pitti Immagine Uomo 2026.

Swaim Hutson’s Vision: Authenticity and Innovation

Appointed in late 2025 by Executive Chairman Andrew Rosen, Hutson faced the challenge of injecting new life into a brand that had seen several shifts in leadership. His debut proves that he understands the core DNA of Rag & Bone: the fusion of British tailoring elegance with American sportswear authenticity. Rosen himself described Hutson’s vision as one of "creativity and craftsmanship," noting that the collection strengthens the brand's essence while pushing it forward.

Hutson brings nearly two decades of experience to the table, including tenures at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Club Monaco. This industry veteran status allows him to navigate the commercial realities of a global brand while maintaining a distinct creative voice. His approach is less about reinventing the wheel and more about refining the ride—creating clothes that feel "enduring and immediate," capable of expressing the spirit of New York to a global audience in Florence.

Pitti Uomo 109: A Global Stage for New York Fashion

The context of this debut cannot be overstated. Pitti Uomo 109 is operating under the theme of "Motion," a concept that perfectly aligns with Rag & Bone’s trajectory. As one of the headline presentations, the brand's presence in Florence underscores the importance of the European market for American labels. The energy inside the Fortezza da Basso was palpable, with buyers and press reacting enthusiastically to the brand's renewed focus on design-led menswear.

This collection stands as a testament to the enduring power of New York fashion Florence. It’s a transatlantic dialogue where American utility meets Italian sprezzatura. As the week continues, Hutson’s debut will likely remain a talking point, setting a high bar for what modern American menswear can achieve on the world stage.